Afghanistan’s Northern Towns: Bazaars, Museums, and the Road to Mazar
Northern Afghanistan’s towns—Mazar-i-Sharif, Balkh, Samangan, Kunduz—hold mosques, stupas, and bazaars that remain a record of the country’s deep history, not a holiday destination.
- Flag
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- ISO code
- AF
- Population
- 37,172,386
- Currency
- AFN
- Dial code
- +93
Afghanistan’s Northern Towns: Bazaars, Museums, and the Road to Mazar
Most governments, including the US, UK, Canada, and Australia, advise against all travel. Embassies are closed. Consular support is not available. Anyone who enters does so without a safety net. This is not a recommendation. This is a record of what exists in Afghanistan's northern corridor, for the traveller who already knows the risk and chooses to document it anyway.
- Security Status: All travel advised against by US, UK, Canada, Australia. No diplomatic or consular support available for foreign nationals.
- Air Access: Kabul, Mazar e Sharif, and Kandahar airports have scheduled service. Kam Air, Ariana Afghan Airlines, Flydubai, and Air Arabia operate. These are the only predictable entry points.
- Land Borders: Controlled by the Taliban. Some crossings open intermittently for trade and limited pedestrian movement. No reliable foreign tourist entry.
- Currency: Cash economy. Afghan afghani (AFN). Cards not accepted. ATMs rare outside central Kabul; international cards do not work.
- Best Season: Spring (March, May) and autumn (September, November). Avoid winter in highlands and summer heat in lowlands.
- Transport: Shared taxis and minibuses on major routes. No national bus or rail network. Service absent or irregular in rural and active conflict zones.
Mazar I Sharif and the Blue Mosque
Mazar i Sharif is the most accessible northern city. Get to the Hazrat Ali Shrine, the Blue Mosque, before sunrise. The tilework shifts from pale blue to deep turquoise as the light changes. Remove shoes at the entrance. Women must cover hair and wear a full length chador; bring your own or borrow one at the gate. The shrine complex is open daily.
New Year Gathering
The annual Nowruz celebration, the Afghan New Year in late March, centres on this shrine. A flag raising ceremony called Janda Bala takes place on the first day. Thousands gather. Foreign travellers are rare, so expect scrutiny and questions. Photography inside the shrine is forbidden. From the courtyard, shoot the facade with a long lens. You will not cause offence.
If you arrive during Nowruz, the city bulges. Hotels fill two weeks in advance. Book through a fixer in Kabul who can wire a deposit. Cards do not work and online booking platforms rarely list Mazar properties. Pay in cash afghanis upon arrival. The rate for a basic guesthouse room near the shrine was approximately AFN 1,500 per night in 2024. Budget for double that.
The Ruined Madrasas of Balkh and the Takht E Rostam Stupa
Forty five minutes west of Mazar lies Balkh, the ancient Bactra. What remains is a scatter of mud brick ruins, a decaying minaret, and the Nine Domes Mosque (Masjid e Noh Gonbad), one of the oldest Islamic structures in Afghanistan. The mosque roof collapsed long ago. Only the pillars and arches stand. Hire a taxi from Mazar for the round trip. Negotiate to AFN 1,500 for a half day including waiting time. The driver will wait. There is no return traffic.
Takht E Rostam Stupa
South east on the road to Kabul, near Samangan, the Takht e Rostam stupa sits carved into a hilltop. This is a Buddhist monastic complex from the 4th to 5th centuries. The stupa is a hollowed dome with a central chamber. A tunnel once circled it for ritual circumambulation. The site is open and unguarded. No ticket booth. No guide. The road from the highway is unpaved and rocky; a standard sedan will bottom out. Use a four wheel drive or walk the last kilometre. The view across the Samangan valley from the top is the reason to make the detour.
| Site | Location | Condition | Access Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hazrat Ali Shrine (Blue Mosque) | Mazar i Sharif city centre | Intact, active pilgrimage site | Open daily; no fee; dress code enforced |
| Nine Domes Mosque | Balkh district, 45 min west of Mazar | Partially collapsed, unrestored | Road paved to Balkh; taxi required; no entry fee |
| Takht e Rostam stupa | Samangan, 2 hours south of Mazar | Carved stupa, unmaintained | Last km unpaved; 4x4 recommended; no fee; unguarded |
Kunduz Bazaar Before the Conflicts and What Remains
The Kunduz citadel, a historic fortress in the city centre, was damaged in recent fighting. Its condition is unconfirmed. The Kunduz bazaar, a central market for traditional goods and produce, operates only when security allows. What a pre conflict traveller would have found is documented: a grid of covered lanes selling fresh pistachios from nearby orchards, bolts of Uzbek silk, second hand Russian tools, and flatbread baked in stone ovens. The takht e Rostam stupa near Samangan survives. Kunduz bazaar survives, but with gaps where shops were destroyed.
Working With a Fixer
Document these towns through a fixer. Independent movement north of the Salang Pass is unwise. The road from Kabul to Mazar passes through Baghlan, a provincial capital known for sugar production and nearby archaeological sites. Pull off for fuel only. Do not stop for photos. The checkpoints on this highway are run by armed groups whose allegiance fluctuates. Keep your passport, visa, and a printed copy of your Taliban Ministry of Foreign Affairs approval visible at all times.
Common Questions
Can I enter northern Afghanistan through a land border from Uzbekistan?
The Termez to Hairatan crossing opens intermittently for trade and limited pedestrian movement. It is not reliable for foreign tourist entry. Fly into Mazar e Sharif International Airport instead.
Do I need a guide to visit the sites around Mazar i Sharif?
Yes. Hire a fixer or guide through a Kabul based agency before arrival. Independent travel north of the Salang Pass is unsafe. A guide handles checkpoints, translation, and emergency contacts.
What is the state of the Kunduz bazaar as of 2026?
The central market area exists but its operational status varies with security conditions. The citadel was damaged in recent conflicts. No reliable public source confirms current visitor access.
Is the Takht e Rostam stupa worth the detour from Mazar?
Yes, for anyone documenting Buddhist heritage in Afghanistan. The site is authentic, uncommercialised, and sits in a dramatic hilltop position. Budget a full day for the round trip from Mazar.
Can I photograph inside the Blue Mosque in Mazar i Sharif?
No. Photography inside the shrine is forbidden. Exterior shots from the courtyard are permitted. Use a long lens to avoid drawing attention.
What currency should I carry for the northern towns?
Afghan afghani in cash. Exchange dollars or euros at a Kabul money changer before heading north. ATMs in Mazar are unreliable and international cards do not work.
How safe is the road from Kabul to Mazar i Sharif?
The road is paved but passes through active conflict zones. Checkpoints are frequent. The US, UK, and Canadian governments advise against all travel to Afghanistan. No consular support is available if you encounter trouble.